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Come Out! (With Your Skin Care)

Come Out! (With Your Skin Care) Adrianna Lenko!

Introduction:

Adrianna lives in a hot climate that’s fortunately, also dry rather than humid year round. She describes her skin as oily that’s also acne-prone. The acne is predominately whiteheads and blackheads, with more inflammatory forms appearing every few months. As a result, she has several physical “ice pick” scars on the cheek area. She also has issues with flakiness that she can’t seem to rid. Adrianna does a lot of her own research on products and consequently, has quite an elaborate routine, much like myself!

Routine:

Morning:

  • Cleanser: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Normalizing Cleanser OR Paula’s Choice Hydralight One Step Face Cleanser
  • Toner: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner
  • Chemical Exfoliant: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Regular Strength Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner OR Paula’s Choice CLEAR Extra Strength Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner
  • Acne Treatment: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Regular Strength Acne Fighting Treatment (every other day)
  • Serum: Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Combination Antioxidant Treatment
  • Moisturizer: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Invisible Finish Moisture Gel
  • Chemical Sunscreen: Hada-Labo UV Moist Emulsion OR Hada-Labo Moist Cream
  • Physical Sunscreen: Clinique City Block Sheer Oil-Free Daily Face Protector SPF 25 OR Paula’s Choice Barely There Sheer Matte Tint SPF 20
  • Foundation: Hada-Labo BB Moist Cream OR Hada-Labo BB Moist Emulsion

Evening:

  • Makeup Remover: Fancl Mild Cleansing Oil OR Neutrogena Oil-Free Eye Makeup Remover
  • Cleanser: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Normalizing Cleanser OR Paula’s Choice Hydralight one Step Face Cleanser
  • Toner: Paula’s Choice RESIST Advanced Replenishing Toner Skin Remodeling Complex
  • Chemical Exfoliant/Skin Lightener: Paula’s Choice RESIST Clearly Remarkable Skin Lightening Gel with 2% BHA
  • Retinoid: Differin Gel 0.1%-Prescription
  • Hydrating Serum: Mandom Beauty Barrier Repair, Repair Concentrate Serum
  • Serum: Paula’s Choice RESIST Super Antixoxidant Serum
  • Moisturizer: Paula’s Choice RESIST Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator OR Korres Pomegranate Balancing Cream-Gel Moisturizer

Others:

  • Mask: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Carbon Mask OR Clinique Acne Solutions Oil-Control Cleansing Mask (3x per week)
  • Chemical Exfoliant: Paula’s Choice RESIST Weekly Resurfacing Treatment (3x per week in place of BHA exfoliating toner)
  • Physical Exfoliant: Nivea Visage Skin Refining Scrub with Wet Cloth

Review:

Overall, the routine is very complex and thought out. However, I’m guessing that an in attempt to encompass as many beneficial ingredients as possible, the routine itself has become too cluttered; too convoluted. The biggest problem is that some active ingredients are negating others, while some vehicular ingredients are preventing the adequate penetration of active ones.

In this section, I will simply review each product, WITHOUT commenting on whether a product should be removed, replaced, etc. It’ll be easier for Adrianna and the readers to see it step-by-step in the Recommendation section.

Cleansers: Both cleansers are fine.

Toners: Both non-exfoliating toners are excellent as well. The review for the Skin Balancing one is here; the RESIST one is here.

Chemical Exfoliants: All FOUR are excellent; I personally use three out of the four! The review for the CLEAR Extra is here; the RESIST Weekly is here; and the RESIST Clearly is here. The CLEAR Regular Strength is a less potent, but thicker version of the CLEAR Extra.

Acne Treatment: The PC CLEAR with 2.5% benzoyl peroxide is fine. However, its use is inappropriate and will be discussed later.

Serums: Both the Skinceuticals and PC RESIST serums are excellent and quite similar. A comprehensive comparison of the two products can be found hereThe Mandom serum on the other hand, is quite dull. It’s a light formulation that features some water-binding agents like hyaluronic acid, lecithin, glcyerin and squalane. And that’s it. With so many other fantastic products in her regimen, this one seems out of place.

Moisturizers: The PC Skin Balancing Gel is great and is reviewed here. The PC Hydrator is also good, though I prefer the Gel. The Hydrator contains a form of vitamin C (sodium ascorbyl phosphate) that isn’t nearly as effective as the other ones present in Adrianna’s routine. Furthermore, the niacinamide content is already present in the Gel, so it’s not contributing anything exclusive. However, I can’t deny it’s incredibly silky and pleasant texture. It reminds me a lot of the Clinique Moisture Surge Moisturizer reviewed here. Finally, the Korres moisturizer, while containing an efficacious amount of the pomegranate extract along with several excellent non-fragrant plant oils like jojoba and macadamia, is packaged in a jar. And while Adrianna claims that she depots this into an opaque pump bottle, the damage has already been done. The purpose of having a pump bottle in the first place, is to inhibit the amount of air exposure. When transferring the product from jar into bottle, the product is being exposed to air. Furthermore, once the product is inside the bottle, don’t forget that there is now air in the bottle, where it’s constantly oxidizing any antioxidants (like pomegranate). I will be doing a post on this topic, with some simple geometric and algebraic equations to exemplify this concept. I’ll try to not involve any calculus, because while it would be more accurate, its inclusion would make the post too complicated. ;)

Chemical Sunscreens: The links that Adrianna provided only tell me what ingredients are present, including the active sunscreen ingredients, but the %s are nowhere to be found. So tentatively, I will say that they provide broad UVA and UVB protection because there are ingredients that address both types of UV rays. The UV Moist Emulsion contains zinc oxide, while the UV Moist Cream contains Tinsorb S. Both also contains Uvinul A Plus, which while not approved yet in the US, is a relatively stable chemical sunscreen that absorbs UVA rays. As the names suggest, the Moist Cream is also thicker than the Moist Emulsion. 

Physical Sunscreens: The Clinique SPF 25 provides excellent UVA and UVB protection with an equal balance of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Other beneficial ingredients like cucumber, birch, and sunflower are also present. The formula is slightly tinted and can certainly double as a sheer tinted moisturizer. The Paula’s Choice Sheer Tint has slightly less UV protection, due to lower concentrations of Zn0 and Ti02. However, it contains antioxidants that have been proven to enhance UV protection, such as (moderate) amounts of vitamins C and E. I can’t speak on how much coverage this provides, but I’m sure it’s at least as much coverage as the Clinique, since it is marketed as a tinted moisturizer.

Foundations: I typically don’t review foundations, but Adrianna included these Japanese BB creams for me to review. They both provide excellent UV protection (again assuming that the sunscreens present are in adequately high concentrations). However, their formulas don’t contain any other beneficial ingredients.

Masks: Both masks are clay-based absorbent ones, and are both excellent in that particular aspect. Whether or not they are necessary for Adrianna, will be discussed later.

Physical Exfoliation: The Nivea scrub is great on merit alone: it’s not too emollient and also employs gentle plastic beads. But whether or not it’s necessary for Adrianna, is again in question.

Discussion:

The biggest problem is an overflow of products and therefore layers of filler ingredients. Our goal is to help Adrianna streamline her routine, while maintaining the highest possible amount of beneficial ingredients. Just the sheer amount of products applied to the skin daily may have contributed to a oily but flaky appearance. This is because there are products that are quite emollient and others that are quite stripping. So Adrianna’s skin is constantly going through a vicious cycle of being dried out, then flooded with moisture; back and forth, back and forth. I will attempt to normalize and diminish such extremes.

Recommendation:

I won’t be making any additional product recommendations because the ones that Adrianna uses are all (mostly) excellent.

Morning:

  • Cleanser: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Normalizing Cleanser OR Paula’s Choice Hydralight One Step Face Cleanser
    • It’d be easier to just pick one since these two are quite similar in texture and function. But that’s up to Adrianna. There’s no significant reason why she shouldn’t use both.
  • Toner: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner
  • Chemical Exfoliant: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Regular Strength Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner OR Paula’s Choice CLEAR Extra Strength Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner
    • I’d recommend taking out the Regular Strength version because it’s thicker, less effective, and will slightly prevent penetration, due to its glycerin and slip agent contents, which will form a semi-occlusive barrier.
  • Acne Treatment: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Regular Strength Acne Fighting Treatment (Every other day)
    • Even though Adrianna claims that she waits ten minutes for this to dry before going to the next step, so that the benzoyl peroxide content doesn’t neutralize the antioxidants in that step, she’s unfortunately doing exactly that. That’s because benzoyl peroxide doesn’t start breaking down into its free radical counterparts until after it’s penetrated into the dermis. Furthermore, it takes significantly longer than 10 minutes to fully “dissociate” so to speak. Therefore, the benzoyl peroxide is largely inactivating the Skinceuticals serum.
    • Another reason why this product should be taken is because benzoyl peroxide only treats inflammatory acne, not non-inflammatory ones like the whiteheads and blackheads Adrianna experiences. It will help treat the inflammatory ones, but since she only gets a few of those every couple or so months, in my opinion, the cons outweigh the pros.
    • Also because benzoyl peroxide operates by generating ROS, it will age the skin more quickly. What’s the point of using antioxidants to reduce premature aging, while benzoyl peroxide specifically does the opposite?  Therefore, it isn’t a recommended prevention treatment for mild acne. I’d stick with salicylic acid, and only use this to spot treat any inflammatory acne that appears.
  • Serum: Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Combination Antioxidant Treatment
  • Moisturizer: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Invisible Finish Moisture Gel
    • I’d recommend taking this product out of the morning routine entirely. It’s just another layer of product that has no real benefit. Alone, it is an excellent product with several beneficial antioxidants that provide some UV protection. However, the Skinceuticals serum has been shown in studies to enhance UV protection by 400%! Furthermore, because Adrianna uses chemical sunscreens, another layer of product will just increase the distance between the UV filters and the skin. The closer chemical sunscreens are to the skin, the less risk they have of being wiped or washed away. Finally, the wheat germ oil content may exacerbate acne-prone skin.
  • Chemical Sunscreen: Hada-Labo UV Moist Emulsion OR Hada-Labo Moist Cream
    • Again, because I don’t know the % of each sunscreen ingredient present, I can only base my recommendation on the inactive ingredients. I’d say go for the Moist Emulsion just because it’s a lighter formulation.
  • Physical Sunscreen: Clinique City Block Sheer Oil-Free Daily Face Protector SPF 25 OR Paula’s Choice Barely There Sheer Matte Tint SPF 20
    • I applaud Adrianna for using two sunscreens! While I don’t have the time to do that personally, if you can, why not? Again, I’d say just pick one. The Clinique has more mineral-based UV protection, while the PC one has a bit more antioxidant-based UV protection.
  • Foundation: Hada-Labo BB Moist Cream OR Hada-Labo BB Moist Emulsion
    • I’m not really sure why these are included at all. I mean, Adrianna already has excellent, EXCELLENT mineral and antioxidant UV protection. Any more is just superfluous and most likely irrelevant. Now, I don’t know what Adrianna’s skin looks like, but if she has relatively good skin, the tinted physical sunscreen used in the last step could definitely double as a tinted moisturizer. I’d recommend skipping foundation entirely and just use concealer on any parts that need a bit more coverage. Again it’s just one less layer. Of course, Adrianna can use a foundation with ethanol to dry out those layers of product if she so chooses. Click here for how ethanol is used in skin care.

Evening:

  • Makeup Remover: Fancl Mild Cleansing Oil OR Neutrogena Oil-Free Eye Makeup Remover
  • Cleanser: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Normalizing Cleanser OR Paula’s Choice Hydralight one Step Face Cleanser
    • Again, just pick one.
  • Toner: Paula’s Choice RESIST Advanced Replenishing Toner Skin Remodeling Complex
  • Chemical Exfoliant/Skin Lightener:Paula’s Choice RESIST Clearly Remarkable Skin Lightening Gel with 2% BHA
    • While the RESIST Clearly product with 2% hydroquinone is excellent, I don’t believe, based on the information provided, that Adrianna needs this product. The inclusion of the 0.1% Differin (adapalene) and the Extra Strength Toner in the morning should be more than enough. I’d suggest removing this product completely. Furthermore, to benefit the most from a prescription retinoid, it should be applied first to the skin. This product only servers to inhibit Differin’s ability to function.
  • Retinoid: Differin Gel 0.1%-Prescription
  • Hydrating Serum: Mandom Beauty Barrier Repair, Repair Concentrate Serum
    • I’d suggest removing this product because it’s basically a glorified (and slightly thicker) toner. It’s just another layer of product that subsequent steps need to penetrate. If extra hydration is needed, just apply two layers of the RESIST toner.
  • Serum: Paula’s Choice RESIST Super Antixoxidant Serum
  • Moisturizer: Paula’s Choice RESIST Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator OR Korres Pomegranate Balancing Cream-Gel Moisturizer
    • Again, I’d suggest removing the Korres moisturizer because it’s packaged in a jar. As for the Hydrator, the most important contribution it provides is niacinamide. The form of vitamin C is rather useless, at least in terms of stimulating collagen production. Studies indicate that a ten-fold concentration of sodium ascorbyl phosphate is needed to match the results of its magnesium cousin and of course, those of L-ascorbic acid. The Skin Balancing Gel from the morning routine also provides niaicinamide and other beneficial ingredients, so the Gel is preferred over the Hydrator.
    • Therefore, I’d recommend Adrianna to pick ONE of the TWO products with niacinamide, and then alternate that product with the PC RESIST Serum every other night.

Others:

  • Mask: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Carbon Mask OR Clinique Acne Solutions Oil-Control Cleansing Mask (3x per week)
    • I’d recommend Adrianna to discontinue use of these two because they only serve to temporarily dry out the skin. They won’t remove blackheads or exfoliate the skin. This product also largely contributes to the “vicious cycle” I mentioned.
  • Chemical Exfoliant: Paula’s Choice RESIST Weekly Resurfacing Treatment (3x per week in place of BHA exfoliating toner)
    • Because this product has such a light (liquid) vehicular base, I’d recommend Adrianna use this TWICE per week, before the Differin gel is applied. The exfoliating action from the 10% glycolic acid, will thin the stratum corneum and enhance the effectiveness of the Differin. Furthermore, with appropriate use, it will reduce the appearance of any dry, flaky skin.
  • Physical Exfoliant: Nivea Visage Skin Refining Scrub with Wet Cloth
    • I’d recommend removing this product as well, at least from regular use. As I explained in Jessica’s routine review here, physical exfoliation can worsen flakiness.

SO TO SUM EVERYTHING UP, HERE’S WHAT I’D LIKE ADRIANNA’S ROUTINE TO LOOK LIKE.

Morning:

  • Cleanser: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Normalizing Cleanser OR Paula’s Choice Hydralight One Step Face Cleanser (Pick ONE)
  • Toner: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner
  • Chemical Exfoliant: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Extra Strength Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner (Wait 15-30 minutes)
  • Serum: Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Combination Antioxidant Treatment (Wait 10-15 minutes)
  • Moisturizer with SPF: Hada-Labo UV Moist Emulsion (Wait 10-15 minutes)
  • Tinted Moisturizer: Clinique City Block Sheer Oil-Free Daily Face Protector SPF 25 OR Paula’s Choice Barely There Sheer Matte Tint SPF 20 (Pick ONE)

Evening:

  • Makeup Remover: Fancl Mild Cleansing Oil OR Neutrogena Oil-Free Eye Makeup Remover
  • Cleanser: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Normalizing Cleanser OR Paula’s Choice Hydralight one Step Face Cleanser (Pick ONE)
  • Toner: Paula’s Choice RESIST Advanced Replenishing Toner Skin Remodeling Complex
  • Chemical Exfoliant: Paula’s Choice RESIST Weekly Smoothing Treament (TWICE per week with equal days in between) (Wait at least 30 minutes)
  • Acne Treatment: Differin Gel 0.1%-Prescription (Wait at least 60 minutes)
  • Moisturizer: Paula’s Choice RESIST Super Antixoxidant Serum OR (Paula’s Choice RESIST Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator OR Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Invisible Finish Moisture Gel (Pick ONE of the TWO and alternate with RESIST Serum))

Others:

  • Spot Treatment: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Regular Strength Acne Fighting Treatment (when needed) (Use only during the nighttime AFTER the Differin Gel application)

*When I give time estimates, they refers to the amount of time AFTER application, not BEFORE.

Hopefully as everyone can see, the resulting routine is much more simple and elegant, while retaining most if not all of the beneficial ingredients present in the old (cluttered) routine!

Conclusion:

Thank you Adrianna for trusting me and reaching out for help! For someone as knowledgeable as Adrianna to do this, makes me feel really good inside!

Feel free to ask any questions in the comments down below. And if anyone would like for me to review his/her routine in a similar fashion, click here.

Like I’ve mentioned before in the Disclaimer, I am not a medical professional of any kind, so if you decide to follow my advise, do so knowing that you bear full responsibility.

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About John

The Triple Helixian is an unbiased science and research-based site that attempts to clarify and elucidate questions about skin care, while aspiring to be the most thorough and complete source of information.

Discussion

22 thoughts on “Come Out! (With Your Skin Care) Adrianna Lenko!

  1. hey John, my routine is extremely similar to Adrianna’s (i use all the paulas choice products she uses but dont use the differin gel) so this was a very interesting and useful post to read, thank you. I have Combination skin, prone to cysts in the jawline area. I also have some raised white acne scarring bumps and dark spots. Is there anything to assist with acne scarring bumps or would i need to resort to chemical peels, etc. Also just wanted to pick your brain on what your thoughts are on the new Paula’s Choice Resist BHA9 and where in the routine this could be incorporated. Keep up the good work :)

    Posted by Harriet | October 17, 2012, 9:15 am
    • Hi Harriet,

      For post-acne scarring you’ll want to use lighteners, exfoliants, and/or anti-inflammatory agents. So you can certainly give the PC BHA9 a try. I think it’s a great spot treatment for acne and post-acne hyperpigmentation. I personally have not tried this, and I don’t plan to since my routine right now (which is a bit different from what’s listed on the site; I plan to update the routine when I know for sure that I love everything) keeps my skin pretty much acne-free. I don’t really break out anymore. :)

      So the 9% SA can be a great alternative to something like benzoyl peroxide. I’m not a huge fan of the price (it’s like $123/oz), but since it’s a spot treatment, that’s acceptable. Does that make sense? You can also try the new PC RESIST Skin Brightening Treatment. The results won’t be too dramatic I suspect, but it’s a great overall skin lightener. And there are mineral pigments present in it that make the skin look better than it actually is!

      Posted by John | October 17, 2012, 7:28 pm
      • Thanks for the response :) and glad to hear that you are break out free! it must be a great feeling. Would you suggest using the bha9 at night and the brightener during the day before sun screen or does it not matter when you use it? btw after reading more posts on your blog i have recently started waiting around 30 minutes between products to allow them to be absorbed in my skin and not conflict with each other. I will let you know how it’s going!

        Posted by Harriet | October 18, 2012, 8:08 am
        • It is a great feeling not having to deal with breakouts like before.

          You can use the BHA9 during the day and/or night. It doesn’t really matter; it’s your personal preference. Same goes for the brightener. And yes, both would be applied before sunscreen if used during the day.

          Also, I’m glad that you’re reading more of the blog. However, keep in mind that the 30 minutes rule only applies to pH-sensitive ingredients/products and retinoids. :) Everything else can be applied a few minutes apart.

          Posted by John | October 18, 2012, 11:57 am
  2. hi your site is very interesting but on beznoyl peroxide i have heard the opposite that free radicals from using it for acne arent harmful. paula begoun talked about that on her facebook page, i think you are doing interesting work on your site but you may be wrong here is what paula said what do you think:

    True/False? “Benzoyl peroxide creates free radicals and is known to cause premature skin aging, just like repeated sun exposure or persistent acne.”

    Rest assured, this is inaccurate. Such statements are a misunderstanding of how benzoyl peroxide functions on skin. It stems from confusion over the differences between benzoyl peroxide and hydrogen peroxide, and lumping all free radicals together as bad. Surprisingly, that’s not the case.

    It’s true: not all free radicals are bad for you. Free radicals serve a critical part of your body’s function: we actually need them to stay alive. Like most things, in moderation they can be beneficial. It’s when free radicals get out of control that problems develop. Of course, some types of free radicals are always damaging, especially hydroxyl radicals, which react quickly, causing immediate and lasting damage to skin.

    Hydroxyl radicals are produced by hydrogen peroxide; benzoyl peroxide does NOT produce hydroxyl radicals. Benzoyloxyl radicals result from benzoyl peroxide, and convert into phenyl radicals. Phenyl radicals are not as damaging as hydroxyl radicals, and since the reaction leading to damage occurs quickly, the damage is brief and fleeting. This is no more harmful than the free radical damage that occurs to your skin from simply being surrounded by oxygen, and such a reaction is easily countered by products containing antioxidants.

    Benzoyl peroxide radicals are short-acting and sensitive to such an extent that mixing an antioxidant-rich product with benzoyl peroxide reduces its effectiveness as an anti-bacterial ingredient. This is why we recommend allowing a product medicated with benzoyl peroxide a few minutes to dry before applying your Paula’s Choice serum and/or moisturizer.

    Posted by Valerie Plainer | May 5, 2012, 5:58 pm
    • Hi Valerie,

      First of all thanks for commenting! Well as I’ve shown many times, Paula is not always right. But regardless of that, benzoyl peroxide is highly effective, and I’ve personally recommended its use for many people. And of course I realize that hydrogen peroxide is more potent than benzoyl peroxide. However, even Paula can’t deny that benzoyl peroxide works by generating free radicals. You’ll see that she states, “…phenyl radicals are not AS damaging as…” And while she claims that this damage is “brief” and “fleeting” I still wouldn’t recommend slathering benzoyl peroxide all over your face on a chronic basis in an attempt to prevent breakouts. Of course if that’s the only thing that works, go for it. Once again, I have personally done that as I’ve had really bad acne. But for those with mild acne, spot treating with benzoyl peroxide is preffered, rather than putting an entire layer on. It’s up to you whether or not the pros outweigh the cons.

      So I am still correct in that even if its action is slower than hydrogen peroxide, chronic use all-over-the-face of benzoyl peroxide will age your skin prematurely. There are certainly better alternatives like salicylic acid or a retinoid in an attempt to prevent acne. Benzoyl peroxide is just one option.

      Once again thank you for bringing this topic up, because it’s a great platform to speak from and to clarify things that you and I’m sure others are confused about. And welcome to The Triple Helix Liaison!

      Posted by John | May 5, 2012, 7:30 pm
      • hi john thanks. but paula didnt deny that free radicals exist there with benzyol peroxide she says it there that free radicals are all over and necessary and only some are harrming. there are differnt kinds and those that cause skin getting older are not the same as those on benozyl peroxide. iam very glad to talk to you about this but i dont see prrof that they are aging, can you find the study that shows this b/c i cannot. thanks so much for talking to me!

        Posted by Valerie Plainer | May 5, 2012, 8:46 pm
        • Yes free radicals are everywhere and are necessary for our entire internal system; it’s a way to adapt, etc… But for the skin, this idea of hormesis isn’t as defined when it comes to the skin. Furthermore, no matter how much sunscreen you where, or how much you avoid the sun, your skin will inevitably come into contact with free radicals through fluorescent lights and other sources of UV light.

          In additions, sunscreens don’t block infrared lights, which have been documented to age the skin as well. So no matter what you do, your skin will come into contact with free radicals. Therefore, the less free radicals the better, when it comes to the skin.

          And yes there are many studies that document benzoyl peroxide’s effects. Here’s one that I found after 30 seconds of searching… It’s a free full length article too. I think you’ll learn a lot from it.

          http://www.nature.com/jid/journal/v112/n6/full/5603184a.html

          I’m sorry to say, but you can never depend on a singular source (such as Paula or myself) to base your decisions off of. The more educated opinions you encounter and deliberate upon, the better your eventual informed decision will be.

          Posted by John | May 6, 2012, 12:13 am
          • thank you so much john! but your link is an animal test which isnt the same in people skin care. also readng your link shows the opposite of what you say. benzoyl peroxide didnt show relevant differece in the mouse until the test put uvb lightwithout sunscreen on them which is sureley going to age skin and they used so much uvb light. so this doesnt work fro what you say above about using benzoyl peroxide aging skin alone. do you have any proof of what yousay? thank you so much john this is good, i hope you dont mind my questions but i think it is important to show proof for what you say b/c you have a site whereh people will read and not know if you have evidence for your claims. paula begoun has so much experience and works with chemistsy and teams. where do you get your information?

            Posted by Valerie Plainer | May 6, 2012, 10:03 am
            • Valerie,

              Mice skin and human skin have lots of similarities, which is why researchers choose mice rather than say, an alligator to test. Furthermore, the study I linked wasn’t to show whether or not benzoyl peroxide generates harmful free radicals; that’s already been shown and proven. The study was to show that the mechanisms of aging are similar between BPO and UVB-induced damage. I don’t know what you’re reading; perhaps you’re misunderstanding the text, but the proof is staring you right in the face in that study I linked. The source, Journal of Investigative Dermatology is a highly reputable medical journal. Furthermore, I get all of my information from other reputable scientific journals and centralized databases like PubMed, which is run by the NCBI.

              And you’re wrong. If you read the study more carefully, BPO was used together and separately with UVB light, and BPO alone showed similar signs of UVB-induced photoaging, which is marked by alterations in elastin (measured as desmosine) and GAG (measured as uronic acid).

              I completely understand that I need proof to make claims; that’s one of the most important cornerstones to me. I made this site because I was tired of seeing false claims, etc… So I always have proof. I don’t get anything from just making things up. The point of this blog is to educate people; I don’t have a single affiliate link, or any financial motivations.

              Speaking of which, Paula, while a good source of information, does have that financial bias. Sure she has a lot of experience, but who says that experience is right? I mean, if you use experience as an argument, Lancome (owned by L’Oreal) has significantly longer experience than Paula in this industry, and yet it continues to promotee poor skin care products, some of which are characterized by creams with jar packaging and sunscreens that don’t provide any UVA protection.

              Another example of why Paula isn’t right: She’ll rate foundations that don’t provide adequate UV protection poorly. However, what she doesn’t realize or at least show, is that you’ll never apply enough foundation to achieve the labeled SPF, unless you want to look like a complete cake face. You’ll need a separate sunscreen/moisturizer with SPF anyways. I know it sounds like I’m picking on Paula, but that’s just to show you that anyone, including myself, can be wrong.

              No matter how much evidence I show you, if you are unwilling to see the truth, then you’ll always find “reasons” to invalide any evidence. The choice is yours if you still want to use BPO chronically to reduce acne, I can’t control you. :)

              Posted by John | May 6, 2012, 1:18 pm
  3. Again, you did an amazing job. Thank you for sharing your knowledge so generously!
    I feel it’s been so hard for me to find a simple routine that works and stick to it.
    I’ve actually been writing my skin routine for days now, but I’m still hesitant to send it to you just because it’s so complicated and there are so many products. I think it may be even more complicated than Adrianna’s. It’s even giving me a headache just to write it down :(

    Posted by Isa | April 27, 2012, 6:34 pm
  4. Ack, I guess I did lose my first comment; I was saying that I was really glad and impressed to see a review that is taking an already good routine and streamlining it.

    Posted by ladyisla | April 25, 2012, 4:02 pm
    • I’m not really sure why you’re think you lost your first comment. I mean, I have to approve each comment manually, so you wouldn’t see a comment until it’s been approved. But anyways, thanks for taking the time to type it out again.

      Posted by John | April 25, 2012, 11:30 pm
      • It’s odd because I usually DO see my own comment, but with a little note under it that says “will not be visible until approved” or something like that–so I can see my whole comment as it will appear when it’s approved, but I assume nobody else can until you approve it. I didn’t see it after the first time I left the comment, so I assumed it had gotten lost. It must have been because I hadn’t signed in to WordPress yet.
        Gak, I think I made that explanation more complicated than it needed to be…But in short, I’ve been able to see my OWN comments after I click “Post Comment,” with a note that says it’s not approved yet.

        Posted by ladyisla | April 25, 2012, 11:44 pm
      • Oh, actually it says “Your comment is awaiting moderation,” not “will not be visible”.

        Posted by ladyisla | April 25, 2012, 11:44 pm
  5. In some ways I think that might be more challenging than just making recommendations for certain conditions. And this is especially complicated since you have to figure out what might be causing the flakiness; though it appears that it might just be due to the amount of different products used.

    Posted by ladyisla | April 25, 2012, 4:01 pm
  6. This is great! I am so impressed that you’re tackling a routine that already has mostly great products; and just trying to simplify it instead. ;)

    Posted by ladyisla | April 25, 2012, 3:57 pm
    • Thanks! I hope Adrianna gets some help out of it. It was a really REALLY long review. Almost 3000 words, though a lot of it was just repeating her routine. Still, it’s quite long.

      Posted by John | April 25, 2012, 11:29 pm

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