RESIST Advanced Replenishing Toner Skin Remodeling Complex ($18.95 for 4 oz)
Positives: True to its name, its milky texture replenishes the skin by providing good amounts of different components of the epidermal barrier, specifically the extracellular matrix, and other ingredients that mimic those components, including: the linoleic, oleic, linolenic acids, phospholipids, sodium hyaluronate, as well as moderate amounts of sphingolipids, evening primrose oil, lecithin, and several others.
It also contains high amounts of the antioxidants ferulic acid, epigallocatechin gallate (the primarily polyphenolic antioxidant of green tea), as well as moderate amounts of vitamins C and E, quercetin, and pumpkin seed extract. Some well-known anti-irrtants are also present in moderate amounts, as licorice and beet root extracts.
Finally, there is also a moderate amount of acetyl glucosamine, a monosaccharide that has demonstrated the ability to facilitate wound healing and hydration, when taken orally. How much of that is relevant to skin care is unfortunately, unknown. It also has some compelling evidence suggesting that it can lighten the skin due to its ability to inhibit melanin production, especially in the presence of niacinamide. However, since this product does not have niacinamide, whether or not its inclusion has any significant benefit, is once again in question. Nevertheless, small clinical studies that experimented with just acetyl glucosamine, have demonstrated that it can reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase glycosylation, a necessary step in melanin synthesis (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19845667). Furthermore, it has been shown to competitively bind to molecule responsible for keratinocyte adhesion, meaning that it could act as a mild exfoliant (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19691938). But because more large-scale and comprehensive research are needed for this ingredient, it’s probably safest to say that like most proteins, it will act as an excellent water-binding agent.
Neutrals: This contains a (relatively) large amount of carnosine, a dipeptide of the amino acids histidine and beta-alanine. It is a naturally occurring protein that is highly concentrated in the muscle and brain cells of the human body. There is limited evidence suggesting that carnosine can reduce the rate of telomere shortening in human fibroblasts, the cells that manufacture collagen, which consequently, means that it can extend the Hayflick limit.
In short, the Hayflick limit results in the death of a cell because its telomeres have reached minimum lengths, which will not allow for continued translation or protein synthesis. This is important because once the skin runs out of fibroblasts to differentiate, it can’t produce collagen anymore. However, the Hayflick limit was demonstrated in vitro, not in vivo or real life. In addition, many studies have demonstrated that certain cells other than germ and cancer ones can divide well beyond the Hayflick ”limit.” For example, skin stem cells have been shown to divide >1000 times without any physiological sign of senescence. However, that doesn’t mean that we can stay young forever. It’s a convoluted and complicated issue that has no clear and quick answer. Carnosine definitely still needs a lot more double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face, left-right randomized, peer-reviewed studies to substantiate its potential abilities, so right now it should be tentatively considered as a safe and promising ingredient that may help extend the Hayflick limit. This topic will be more throughly discussed in “How the Skin Ages.”
Packaging: This is packaged in a tube, with a tiny opening that helps preserve the efficacy of the air-sensitive ingredients. For a toner that’s as viscous as this one, that’s the best that we can hope for.
Overall: Well this is definitely the mother of all toners! I have yet to encounter a toner that comes close to matching this one in terms of the exemplary blend of fantastic ingredients included. However, with that in mind, I have to say that it’s not appropriate for all skin types, especially not those with problematic skin, such as those who are acne-prone. The fatty acid contents will only worsen those conditions, despite the presence of so many other beneficial ingredients.
Also, keep in mind that when I say “high” or “moderate” amounts of a certain ingredient, that’s only in relation to the ingredient list. With the presence of so many beneficial ingredients, it’s most likely that they are all present in very low amounts, when compared to those for example, in a targeted treatment.
But still, this is an undeniable commendable product that I’d recommend to those who don’t have problematic skin related to sebum overproduction.
PS = [[[PIS - 0] x WIC] + [TPS x WPC]] x 100%
PS = [[9.5/10 x 2/3] + [3/3 x 1/3]] x 100%
PS = [19/30 + 3/9] x 100%
PS = [57/90 + 30/90] x 100%
PS = 87/90 x 100%
PS = .967 x 100%
PS = 96.7%
AS = A
Check the Product Review Rubric for a full explanation on how I rate products.
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane (silicone-based skin-conditioning agent), Glycerin (skin-identical ingredient), Glycerth-26 (emollient), Dimethiconol (silicone-based skin-conditioning agent), Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Linolenic Acid (essential fatty acids/cell-communicating ingredients), Phospholipids (skin-identical ingredient), Carnosine (cell-communicating ingredient), Epigallocatechin Gallate, Genistein (antioxidants), Sodium Hyaluronate, Sphingolipids (skin-identical ingredients), Ferulic Acid (antioxidant), Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (skin-conditioning agent), Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (anti-irritant), Acetyl Glucosamine (water-binding agent), Tocopherol (vitamin E/antioxidant), Ascorbyl Palmitate (stabilized vitamin C/antioxidant), Quercetin (antioxidant), Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil (non-fragrant plant oil), Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, Curcubita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract (antioxidants), Lecithin (cell-communicating ingredient), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (emollient), Hydrolyzed Corn Starch (opacifying agent), Polysorbate 20 (stabilizer), Hydrogenated Lecithin (cell-communicating ingredient), Butylene Glycol (slip agent), Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (film-forming agent), Xanthan Gum (thickener), Laureth-23 (cleansing agent), Laureth-4 (emulsifier), Aminomethyl Propanol (pH adjuster), Disodium EDTA (stabilizer), Sorbic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Benzoic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol (preservatives).