My Story & Routine in Detail Part III

 Evening Part 1:

• Cleanser/Makeup Remover: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Oil-Reducing Cleanser. This is the same product as the cleanser used during the day. See Part 1 for the mini-review.

• Toner: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner. This is the same product that’s used during the day. See Part 1 for that review.

• Treatment: Paula’s Choice RESIST Weekly Resurfacing Treatment OR Paula’s Choice RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment OR Paula’s Choice RESIST Clearly Remarkable Skin Lightening Gel OR Nothing. I find without the use of glycolic acid, another chemical exfoliant, my skin starts to look dull.
  • I’m thinking that because salicylic acid is lipid-soluble and therefore, tends to induce exfoliation in  the deeper layers of the skin, the surface of the skin remains littered with dead cells, resulting in that dull appearance. Glycolic acid on the other hand, is water-soluble and therefore, tends to induce exfoliation on the surface of the skin. Furthermore, it works much much harder, resulting in more aggressive exfoliation. The recommended concentration range for at-home leave-on glycolic acid products is 5-10%.
    • The PC RESIST Weekly Treatment contains 10% glycolic acid in a liquid vehicular base, which allows for rapid penetration. It’s also contains the antioxidants green tea, grape, and vitamin C, which are present in high amounts. It’s other chief constituents are primarily anti-inflammatories and they include: licorice, burdock and oat extracts, borago oil, chamomile, and willow bark. The anti-inflammatories are present because glyoclic acid can be irritating to some people, especially if they are first-time users. It also contains a high amount of dipotassium glycyrrhizate, which has limited studies demonstrating that it’s an antioxidant and an anti-inflammatory, probably because its closely related to licorice. Anyways, I find that using this once a week restores luster to my skin. However, it is too potent to use every other day for my skin. If I do, my skin becomes increasingly red and sensitive, despite being very smooth and soft. Therefore, to achieve the effects of smooth and not-flaky skin without any irritation, I use the next product.
    • The PC RESIST Daily Treatment contains 5% glycolic acid and 0.5% salicylic acid in a silky gel (characterized by butylene glycol) base. It also contains high amounts, and I can confirm that the following are present in higher concentrations than 0.5%, just because they come before the salicylic acid ingredient on the ingredient list (this was independently confirmed with Paula): Palmitoyl oligopeptide, which has been shown to  stimulate human fibroblasts! Whether or not it can penetrate the stratum cornuem is unknown, but most likely it can just because of its structural similarities to the Matrixyl family of peptides; ceramide 2, a great skin epidermal barrier ingredient that increases water content without adding much additional emollience; curcumin extracts, which are antioxidant and anti-inflammatory; epigallocatechin gallate, which is the most important polyphenolic component of green tea; and caffeic acid (precursor to ferulic acid), which is a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. There are also less amounts of vitamin E, and the anti-inflammatories melon extract, bisabolol and allantoin. All of these will help combat any irritation that the two hydroxy acids may cause. Overall, this is a fantastic multi-combination product that everyone can benefit from.
  • Now, on to the final product, which is the PC Remarkable Gel with 2% hydroquinone. Okay freak out, NOW! I’m gonna go grab a drink. Now that we’re all calm, let’s talk about hydroquinone. In short, it’s safe. Great talking with you. No, I’m kidding. Hydroquinone will be more thoroughly discussed in the “Want to Debunk?” series, because I’m sure someone’s going to request that ingredient. It also contains calming aloe, willow herb, again the dipoassium glycyrrhizate, and the antioxidant superoxide dismutase, though it won’t penetrate the stratum corneum. This product also contains 2% salicylic acid in a pH appropriate gel.
    • I use this depending on how my skin’s appearance. If my face looks discolored or significantly darker than my neck, I’ll use this product for a period of time. I don’t use this routinely because hydroquinone is one of those rare ingredients that your skin can become immune or conditioned to. Because hydroquinone works by suppressing tyrosine’s ability to melanin, the body can respond by increasing tyrosine production to make up for that deficiency. Therefore, stronger concentrations of hydroquinone would be needed, and that may trigger some unwanted side effects.