Come Out! (With Your Skin Care) Adrianna Lenko!

Introduction:

Adrianna lives in a hot climate that’s fortunately, also dry rather than humid year round. She describes her skin as oily that’s also acne-prone. The acne is predominately whiteheads and blackheads, with more inflammatory forms appearing every few months. As a result, she has several physical “ice pick” scars on the cheek area. She also has issues with flakiness that she can’t seem to rid. Adrianna does a lot of her own research on products and consequently, has quite an elaborate routine, much like myself!

Routine:

Morning:

• Cleanser: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Normalizing Cleanser OR Paula’s Choice Hydralight One Step Face Cleanser
• Toner: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner
• Chemical Exfoliant: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Regular Strength Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner OR Paula’s Choice CLEAR Extra Strength Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner
• Acne Treatment: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Regular Strength Acne Fighting Treatment (every other day)
• Serum: Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Combination Antioxidant Treatment
• Moisturizer: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Invisible Finish Moisture Gel
• Chemical Sunscreen: Hada-Labo UV Moist Emulsion OR Hada-Labo Moist Cream
• Physical Sunscreen: Clinique City Block Sheer Oil-Free Daily Face Protector SPF 25 OR Paula’s Choice Barely There Sheer Matte Tint SPF 20
• Foundation: Hada-Labo BB Moist Cream OR Hada-Labo BB Moist Emulsion

Evening:

• Makeup Remover: Fancl Mild Cleansing Oil OR Neutrogena Oil-Free Eye Makeup Remover
• Cleanser: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Normalizing Cleanser OR Paula’s Choice Hydralight one Step Face Cleanser
• Toner: Paula’s Choice RESIST Advanced Replenishing Toner Skin Remodeling Complex
• Chemical Exfoliant/Skin Lightener: Paula’s Choice RESIST Clearly Remarkable Skin Lightening Gel with 2% BHA
• Retinoid: Differin Gel 0.1%-Prescription
• Hydrating Serum: Mandom Beauty Barrier Repair, Repair Concentrate Serum
• Serum: Paula’s Choice RESIST Super Antixoxidant Serum
• Moisturizer: Paula’s Choice RESIST Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator OR Korres Pomegranate Balancing Cream-Gel Moisturizer

Others:

• Mask: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Carbon Mask OR Clinique Acne Solutions Oil-Control Cleansing Mask (3x per week)
• Chemical Exfoliant: Paula’s Choice RESIST Weekly Resurfacing Treatment (3x per week in place of BHA exfoliating toner)
• Physical Exfoliant: Nivea Visage Skin Refining Scrub with Wet Cloth

Review:

Overall, the routine is very complex and thought out. However, I’m guessing that an in attempt to encompass as many beneficial ingredients as possible, the routine itself has become too cluttered; too convoluted. The biggest problem is that some active ingredients are negating others, while some vehicular ingredients are preventing the adequate penetration of active ones.

In this section, I will simply review each product, WITHOUT commenting on whether a product should be removed, replaced, etc. It’ll be easier for Adrianna and the readers to see it step-by-step in the Recommendation section.

Cleansers: Both cleansers are fine.

Toners: Both non-exfoliating toners are excellent as well. The review for the Skin Balancing one is here; the RESIST one is here.

Chemical Exfoliants: All FOUR are excellent; I personally use three out of the four! The review for the CLEAR Extra is here; the RESIST Weekly is here; and the RESIST Clearly is here. The CLEAR Regular Strength is a less potent, but thicker version of the CLEAR Extra.

Acne Treatment: The PC CLEAR with 2.5% benzoyl peroxide is fine. However, its use is inappropriate and will be discussed later.

Serums: Both the Skinceuticals and PC RESIST serums are excellent and quite similar. A comprehensive comparison of the two products can be found here. The Mandom serum on the other hand, is quite dull. It’s a light formulation that features some water-binding agents like hyaluronic acid, lecithin, glcyerin and squalane. And that’s it. With so many other fantastic products in her regimen, this one seems out of place.

Moisturizers: The PC Skin Balancing Gel is great and is reviewed here. The PC Hydrator is also good, though I prefer the Gel. The Hydrator contains a form of vitamin C (sodium ascorbyl phosphate) that isn’t nearly as effective as the other ones present in Adrianna’s routine. Furthermore, the niacinamide content is already present in the Gel, so it’s not contributing anything exclusive. However, I can’t deny it’s incredibly silky and pleasant texture. It reminds me a lot of the Clinique Moisture Surge Moisturizer reviewed here. Finally, the Korres moisturizer, while containing an efficacious amount of the pomegranate extract along with several excellent non-fragrant plant oils like jojoba and macadamia, is packaged in a jar. And while Adrianna claims that she depots this into an opaque pump bottle, the damage has already been done. The purpose of having a pump bottle in the first place, is to inhibit the amount of air exposure. When transferring the product from jar into bottle, the product is being exposed to air. Furthermore, once the product is inside the bottle, don’t forget that there is now air in the bottle, where it’s constantly oxidizing any antioxidants (like pomegranate). I will be doing a post on this topic, with some simple geometric and algebraic equations to exemplify this concept. I’ll try to not involve any calculus, because while it would be more accurate, its inclusion would make the post too complicated. 😉

Chemical Sunscreens: The links that Adrianna provided only tell me what ingredients are present, including the active sunscreen ingredients, but the %s are nowhere to be found. So tentatively, I will say that they provide broad UVA and UVB protection because there are ingredients that address both types of UV rays. The UV Moist Emulsion contains zinc oxide, while the UV Moist Cream contains Tinsorb S. Both also contains Uvinul A Plus, which while not approved yet in the US, is a relatively stable chemical sunscreen that absorbs UVA rays. As the names suggest, the Moist Cream is also thicker than the Moist Emulsion. 

Physical Sunscreens: The Clinique SPF 25 provides excellent UVA and UVB protection with an equal balance of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Other beneficial ingredients like cucumber, birch, and sunflower are also present. The formula is slightly tinted and can certainly double as a sheer tinted moisturizer. The Paula’s Choice Sheer Tint has slightly less UV protection, due to lower concentrations of Zn0 and Ti02. However, it contains antioxidants that have been proven to enhance UV protection, such as (moderate) amounts of vitamins C and E. I can’t speak on how much coverage this provides, but I’m sure it’s at least as much coverage as the Clinique, since it is marketed as a tinted moisturizer.

Foundations: I typically don’t review foundations, but Adrianna included these Japanese BB creams for me to review. They both provide excellent UV protection (again assuming that the sunscreens present are in adequately high concentrations). However, their formulas don’t contain any other beneficial ingredients.

Masks: Both masks are clay-based absorbent ones, and are both excellent in that particular aspect. Whether or not they are necessary for Adrianna, will be discussed later.

Physical Exfoliation: The Nivea scrub is great on merit alone: it’s not too emollient and also employs gentle plastic beads. But whether or not it’s necessary for Adrianna, is again in question.

Discussion:

The biggest problem is an overflow of products and therefore layers of filler ingredients. Our goal is to help Adrianna streamline her routine, while maintaining the highest possible amount of beneficial ingredients. Just the sheer amount of products applied to the skin daily may have contributed to a oily but flaky appearance. This is because there are products that are quite emollient and others that are quite stripping. So Adrianna’s skin is constantly going through a vicious cycle of being dried out, then flooded with moisture; back and forth, back and forth. I will attempt to normalize and diminish such extremes.

Recommendation:

I won’t be making any additional product recommendations because the ones that Adrianna uses are all (mostly) excellent.

Morning:

• Cleanser: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Normalizing Cleanser OR Paula’s Choice Hydralight One Step Face Cleanser
  • It’d be easier to just pick one since these two are quite similar in texture and function. But that’s up to Adrianna. There’s no significant reason why she shouldn’t use both.
• Toner: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner
• Chemical Exfoliant: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Regular Strength Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner OR Paula’s Choice CLEAR Extra Strength Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner
  • I’d recommend taking out the Regular Strength version because it’s thicker, less effective, and will slightly prevent penetration, due to its glycerin and slip agent contents, which will form a semi-occlusive barrier.
• Acne Treatment: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Regular Strength Acne Fighting Treatment (Every other day)
  • Even though Adrianna claims that she waits ten minutes for this to dry before going to the next step, so that the benzoyl peroxide content doesn’t neutralize the antioxidants in that step, she’s unfortunately doing exactly that. That’s because benzoyl peroxide doesn’t start breaking down into its free radical counterparts until after it’s penetrated into the dermis. Furthermore, it takes significantly longer than 10 minutes to fully “dissociate” so to speak. Therefore, the benzoyl peroxide is largely inactivating the Skinceuticals serum.
  • Another reason why this product should be taken is because benzoyl peroxide only treats inflammatory acne, not non-inflammatory ones like the whiteheads and blackheads Adrianna experiences. It will help treat the inflammatory ones, but since she only gets a few of those every couple or so months, in my opinion, the cons outweigh the pros.
  • Also because benzoyl peroxide operates by generating ROS, it will age the skin more quickly. What’s the point of using antioxidants to reduce premature aging, while benzoyl peroxide specifically does the opposite?  Therefore, it isn’t a recommended prevention treatment for mild acne. I’d stick with salicylic acid, and only use this to spot treat any inflammatory acne that appears.
• Serum: Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Combination Antioxidant Treatment
• Moisturizer: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Invisible Finish Moisture Gel
  • I’d recommend taking this product out of the morning routine entirely. It’s just another layer of product that has no real benefit. Alone, it is an excellent product with several beneficial antioxidants that provide some UV protection. However, the Skinceuticals serum has been shown in studies to enhance UV protection by 400%! Furthermore, because Adrianna uses chemical sunscreens, another layer of product will just increase the distance between the UV filters and the skin. The closer chemical sunscreens are to the skin, the less risk they have of being wiped or washed away. Finally, the wheat germ oil content may exacerbate acne-prone skin.
• Chemical Sunscreen: Hada-Labo UV Moist Emulsion OR Hada-Labo Moist Cream
  • Again, because I don’t know the % of each sunscreen ingredient present, I can only base my recommendation on the inactive ingredients. I’d say go for the Moist Emulsion just because it’s a lighter formulation.
• Physical Sunscreen: Clinique City Block Sheer Oil-Free Daily Face Protector SPF 25 OR Paula’s Choice Barely There Sheer Matte Tint SPF 20
  • I applaud Adrianna for using two sunscreens! While I don’t have the time to do that personally, if you can, why not? Again, I’d say just pick one. The Clinique has more mineral-based UV protection, while the PC one has a bit more antioxidant-based UV protection.
• Foundation: Hada-Labo BB Moist Cream OR Hada-Labo BB Moist Emulsion
  • I’m not really sure why these are included at all. I mean, Adrianna already has excellent, EXCELLENT mineral and antioxidant UV protection. Any more is just superfluous and most likely irrelevant. Now, I don’t know what Adrianna’s skin looks like, but if she has relatively good skin, the tinted physical sunscreen used in the last step could definitely double as a tinted moisturizer. I’d recommend skipping foundation entirely and just use concealer on any parts that need a bit more coverage. Again it’s just one less layer. Of course, Adrianna can use a foundation with ethanol to dry out those layers of product if she so chooses. Click here for how ethanol is used in skin care.

Evening:

• Makeup Remover: Fancl Mild Cleansing Oil OR Neutrogena Oil-Free Eye Makeup Remover
• Cleanser: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Normalizing Cleanser OR Paula’s Choice Hydralight one Step Face Cleanser
  • Again, just pick one.
• Toner: Paula’s Choice RESIST Advanced Replenishing Toner Skin Remodeling Complex
• Chemical Exfoliant/Skin Lightener:Paula’s Choice RESIST Clearly Remarkable Skin Lightening Gel with 2% BHA
  • While the RESIST Clearly product with 2% hydroquinone is excellent, I don’t believe, based on the information provided, that Adrianna needs this product. The inclusion of the 0.1% Differin (adapalene) and the Extra Strength Toner in the morning should be more than enough. I’d suggest removing this product completely. Furthermore, to benefit the most from a prescription retinoid, it should be applied first to the skin. This product only servers to inhibit Differin’s ability to function.
• Retinoid: Differin Gel 0.1%-Prescription
• Hydrating Serum: Mandom Beauty Barrier Repair, Repair Concentrate Serum
  • I’d suggest removing this product because it’s basically a glorified (and slightly thicker) toner. It’s just another layer of product that subsequent steps need to penetrate. If extra hydration is needed, just apply two layers of the RESIST toner.
• Serum: Paula’s Choice RESIST Super Antixoxidant Serum
• Moisturizer: Paula’s Choice RESIST Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator OR Korres Pomegranate Balancing Cream-Gel Moisturizer
  • Again, I’d suggest removing the Korres moisturizer because it’s packaged in a jar. As for the Hydrator, the most important contribution it provides is niacinamide. The form of vitamin C is rather useless, at least in terms of stimulating collagen production. Studies indicate that a ten-fold concentration of sodium ascorbyl phosphate is needed to match the results of its magnesium cousin and of course, those of L-ascorbic acid. The Skin Balancing Gel from the morning routine also provides niaicinamide and other beneficial ingredients, so the Gel is preferred over the Hydrator.
  • Therefore, I’d recommend Adrianna to pick ONE of the TWO products with niacinamide, and then alternate that product with the PC RESIST Serum every other night.

Others:

• Mask: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Carbon Mask OR Clinique Acne Solutions Oil-Control Cleansing Mask (3x per week)
  • I’d recommend Adrianna to discontinue use of these two because they only serve to temporarily dry out the skin. They won’t remove blackheads or exfoliate the skin. This product also largely contributes to the “vicious cycle” I mentioned.
• Chemical Exfoliant: Paula’s Choice RESIST Weekly Resurfacing Treatment (3x per week in place of BHA exfoliating toner)
  • Because this product has such a light (liquid) vehicular base, I’d recommend Adrianna use this TWICE per week, before the Differin gel is applied. The exfoliating action from the 10% glycolic acid, will thin the stratum corneum and enhance the effectiveness of the Differin. Furthermore, with appropriate use, it will reduce the appearance of any dry, flaky skin.
• Physical Exfoliant: Nivea Visage Skin Refining Scrub with Wet Cloth
  • I’d recommend removing this product as well, at least from regular use. As I explained in Jessica’s routine review here, physical exfoliation can worsen flakiness.

SO TO SUM EVERYTHING UP, HERE’S WHAT I’D LIKE ADRIANNA’S ROUTINE TO LOOK LIKE.

Morning:

• Cleanser: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Normalizing Cleanser OR Paula’s Choice Hydralight One Step Face Cleanser (Pick ONE)
• Toner: Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner
• Chemical Exfoliant: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Extra Strength Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner (Wait 15-30 minutes)
• Serum: Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Combination Antioxidant Treatment (Wait 10-15 minutes)
• Moisturizer with SPF: Hada-Labo UV Moist Emulsion (Wait 10-15 minutes)
• Tinted Moisturizer: Clinique City Block Sheer Oil-Free Daily Face Protector SPF 25 OR Paula’s Choice Barely There Sheer Matte Tint SPF 20 (Pick ONE)

Evening:

• Makeup Remover: Fancl Mild Cleansing Oil OR Neutrogena Oil-Free Eye Makeup Remover
• Cleanser: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Normalizing Cleanser OR Paula’s Choice Hydralight one Step Face Cleanser (Pick ONE)
• Toner: Paula’s Choice RESIST Advanced Replenishing Toner Skin Remodeling Complex
• Chemical Exfoliant: Paula’s Choice RESIST Weekly Smoothing Treament (TWICE per week with equal days in between) (Wait at least 30 minutes)
• Acne Treatment: Differin Gel 0.1%-Prescription (Wait at least 60 minutes)
• Moisturizer: Paula’s Choice RESIST Super Antixoxidant Serum OR (Paula’s Choice RESIST Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator OR Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Invisible Finish Moisture Gel (Pick ONE of the TWO and alternate with RESIST Serum))

Others:

• Spot Treatment: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Regular Strength Acne Fighting Treatment (when needed) (Use only during the nighttime AFTER the Differin Gel application)

*When I give time estimates, they refers to the amount of time AFTER application, not BEFORE.

Hopefully as everyone can see, the resulting routine is much more simple and elegant, while retaining most if not all of the beneficial ingredients present in the old (cluttered) routine!

Conclusion:

Thank you Adrianna for trusting me and reaching out for help! For someone as knowledgeable as Adrianna to do this, makes me feel really good inside!

Feel free to ask any questions in the comments down below. And if anyone would like for me to review his/her routine in a similar fashion, click here.

Like I’ve mentioned before in the Disclaimer, I am not a medical professional of any kind, so if you decide to follow my advise, do so knowing that you bear full responsibility.