***Note that I have NOT been using this exact routine since about September of 2012. An updated routine will be published soon!
Current Routine:
- Morning:
- Part 1: For a more detailed explanation, click HERE.
- Cleanser: (Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Oil-Reducing Cleanser)
- Toner: (Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner)
- Treatment: (Paula’s Choice CLEAR Extra Strength Anti-Redness Exfoliating Solution)
- Lip Moisturizer: (MAC Lip Conditioner in a Tube) OR
- Lip Moisturizer with SPF: (Jack Black Black Tea and Blackberry Intense Therapy Lip Balm SPF 25)
- Part 2: For a more detailed explanation, click HERE.
- Moisturizer: (Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Invisible Finish Moisture Gel OR Paula’s Choice RESIST Super Antioxidant Serum AND/OR
- Moisturizer with SPF: (Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protection Cream for Face SPF 55 PA+++)
- Part 1: For a more detailed explanation, click HERE.
- Evening:
- Part 3: For a more detailed explanation, click HERE.
- Cleanser: (Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Oil-Reducing Cleanser)
- Toner: (Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner)
- Treatment: ((Paula’s Choice: RESIST Weekly Resurfacing Treatment OR Paula’s Choice RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment) OR (Paula’s Choice RESIST Clearly Remarkable Skin Lightening Gel) OR (Nothing))
- Part 4: For a more detailed explanation, click HERE.
- Lip Moisturizer: (MAC Lip Conditioner in a Tube)
- Moisturizer: (Paula’s Choice RESIST Super Antioxidant Concentrate OR Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM)
- Part 3: For a more detailed explanation, click HERE.
Body Skin Care
- Morning:
- Moisturizer with SPF: (Blue Lizard Australian Sunscreen, Sensitive, SPF 30+)
- Evening:
- Cleanser: (Assorted Philosophy Shower Gels with Salux Body Cloth)
- Treatment: ((Paula’s Choice Extra Strength Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner OR Paula’s Choice RESIST Clearly Remarkable Skin Lightening Gel) OR (Paula’s Choice 8% Alpha Hydroxy Acid Gel))
- Moisturizer: (Paula’s Choice Slip into Silk Body Lotion OR Olay Quench Plus Firming Body Lotion)
- Part 5: For a more detailed explanation, click HERE.
For a list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about my routine, click HERE.
Updates
8/28/12:
Morning:
-
Treatment: Removed Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion (CMCL).
-
Reason: The CMCL was just doing absolutely nothing for me. While its 0.5% salicylic acid content is good and all, it just isn’t potent enough to affect measurable change. So away it goes!
-
Evening:
-
Toner: Replaced Paula’s Choice Advanced Replenishing Toner Skin Remodeling Complex (ARTC) with Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner.
- Reason: If you go down to the update history for 2/16/12, I said that I removed the Moisture Boost Treatment Cream because I speculated that the non-fragrant oil contents (whose components are similar to sebum), were making my very oily skin type exfoliate irregularly. But back then I didn’t know what the cause was; I was only guessing on what was occurring with my skin. However, I now believe that I have a more concrete answer. And shame on me for never thinking about this! I have dandruff! Both on my scalp and my face, which is called seborrheic dermatitis! I’ll be doing a post on this soon, but in short, various species of yeast (which are normally present in the skin), multiply due to excess sebum (which they love to eat and that I have plenty of), contribute to irregular exfoliation due to the byproducts (oleic acid) that are released. These byproducts are unsaturated fatty acids that penetrate past the stratum corneum, inducing inflammation, as well as irregular and erratic cleaving of stratum corneum cells (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16382662). So anyways, I decided to stop using the ARTC for a few days, and in that time frame, my skin was significantly less flaky and felt more “compact” and less “loose.” So while this is an excellent product, it’s just not appropriate for my skin type and condition due to the inclusion of high amounts of the linolenic, oleic, and linoleic free fatty acids.
***Stay tuned because in the upcoming months, I plan to change a LOT of things in my skin care, just because I’m testing a variety of potential alternatives. The things that might change and/or switch around are as follows: Morning Treatment, BOTH Morning Moisturizers, Morning Moisturizer with SPF, BOTH Evening Moisturizers, as well as a few of the body products! So for those of you who like me, are always interested in finding the ideal routine, stay tuned! I’ll be sure to let you guys know when I do update my routine again!
4/8/12:
Evening:
-
Lip Conditioner: Replaced Estee Lauder Nutritious Lip Conditioner (ELNLC) with MAC Lip Conditioner in a Tube (MLPCT).
-
Reason: The ELNLC was discontinued! I’m sad indeed haha. And I had no idea, so I didn’t have time to buy backups. So I’ll be using the MLPCT, which I use during the day when I’m indoors, at nighttime as well. At least it further simplifies my routine.
-
2/16/12:
Morning:
-
Toner: Replaced Paula’s Choice Moisture Boost Toner (MBT) with Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Toner (SBT).
-
Reason: The MBT contains superoxide dismutase, which is WAY too large to penetrate the stratum corneum. It has been shown to be effective for various diseases that manifest with lesions like lupus, but those involve open wounds or at least enlarged openings. Furthermore, because there are numerous antioxidants like green tea and grape seed, the liquid vehicle and packaging will not preserve the antioxidants for long. Finally, the MBT for some reason, stings occasionally upon application. I can’t pinpoint which ingredient specifically is causing this, since based on research, none of them have been known to cause irritation. If anyone knows the answer or has any ideas, please let me know! I chose the SBT to replace the MBT and not another toner because it would be daily source of niacinamide since I hardly use the Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Moisture Gel, the only other facial product that contains niacinamide.
-
-
Eye Moisturizer: Removed Paula’s Choice Moisture Boost Treatment Cream (MBTC).
-
Reason: I took this product out because it ironically was causing my skin to become more flaky. You must be thinking WTF, how is that even possible?! Here’s my reasoning: The MBTC contains ingredients like jojoba oil and a stearic acid derivative. The former is one of the most similar substances to the natural sebum that human skin creates, at least when it comes to composition. Jojoba oil contains similar ratios of wax esters, triglycerides, and fatty acids, and squalene. Stearic acid is a fatty acid, which you can see, is a component of sebum. Therefore, by adding these components of sebum to my skin just worsen my problem. I exfoliate regularly, which remove my excess sebum and dead cells, but these two ingredients just replace those that were just removed. Therefore, my skin still clogs easily. I found that after removing this product, I’ve had less flaky skin and clogged pores. If anyone’s curious about how excess sebum causes flaky skin, here’s my reasoning: the sticky sebum latches and coats the keratinocytes and prevents them from properly falling off (they cling to) the surface of the skin during natural exfoliation.
-
-
Moisturizer without SPF: Added Paula’s Choice RESIST Super Antioxidant Serum.
-
Reason: I already use this product in the evening. I added it because the antioxidants present will enhance the protection of my sunscreens (vitamins C, E, and other antioxidants), and also acts well as a primer under foundation. I use the Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Moisturizer on days when I do not go outside.
-
-
Moisturizer with SPF: Removed Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Daily Moisturizing Lotion with SPF 15 and Antioxidants (SRDML).
-
Reason: I no longer need the antioxidant protection from the SRDML since I now use the Paula’s Choice RESIST Super Antioxidant Serum for that; it provides significantly better antioxidant protection against UV rays. Now that I don’t have to mix sunscreens, the Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protection Cream for Face SPF 55 PA+++ will give me a ton of mineral sun protection.
-
Evening:
- Cleanser: Replaced Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Cleanser (SRC) with the Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Cleanser (SBC).
- Reason: I use this product in the morning. I found that with the SRC, I had to cleanse once to remove makeup and then once again for surface oils, and I don’t have to do that with the SBC. In addition, this move simplifies my routine so that I don’t have to use two different cleansers.
- Acne Treatment: Added the Paula’s Choice RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment (RDST) and removed the Paula’s Choice CLEAR Extra Strength Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner (ESTARET) and the Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion (MCL).
- Reason: The RDST, which I use every other night, contains 5% glycolic acid and 0.5% salicylic acid, which will keep my flaky skin in check, without being as strong as the 10% glycolic weekly treatment. Removed the ESTARET and the MCL because I only use them during the day now; they both contain salicylic acid as their primary active ingredient. Salicylic acid doesn’t increase sensitivity to the sun nearly as much as glycolic acid, which illustrates my reasoning.
- Eye Moisturizer: Removed the Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Moisturizer.
- Reason: Same reason as the morning eye moisturizer.
Hi John,
A question about the Shiseido sunscreen: do you need a makeup remover or double cleansing to remove it? I heard they are notoriously difficult to remove since they are sweat/water resistant.
Just found your blog and FutureDerm and love both!
Grace
Posted by Grace | March 14, 2013, 10:52 amI’m glad to have you join us!
As for the sunscreen, I actually just use a regular facial cleanser; it removes everything with one wash. In my current routine, I’ve stopped using most of the products listed on the blog. As noted, I have been using a different routine as of around September of last year. I’m still perfecting the routine, but it will be posted after my Ideal Routine Page is complete (which will have 30 separate parts!). But anyways, while I’ve changed a lot of things, one of the few that I haven’t changed is my cleanser: the Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Cleanser. It does an excellent job of cleansing the skin, removing sunscreen and makeup, without being drying. I just have to massage my face for a bit longer than usual, perhaps 20-30 seconds instead of 10-15. But it does everything I need it to.
Again, welcome to the club!
Posted by John | March 14, 2013, 8:03 pmWhat do you do with your routine when you have to travel? What do you take along/have to have, and what do you streamline (if anything)?
Posted by Lisa | June 22, 2012, 9:36 pmCleanser: I pour the cleanser into a smaller container so it doesn’t get tossed by TSA.
Toner: Same for the toner. Depending on the weather and/or where I’m going, I’ll opt for the SB one if it’s warmer/more humid, or the RESIST one if it’s colder/drier.
Exfoliant: I take just the 2% SA and 5% GA.
Moisturizer: I take the PC Super Antioxidant Serum, and the PTR Retinol Serum.
Lip Balm: I use the Jack Black Lip Balm both day and night.
Sunscreen: I of course, take my beloved Shiseido SPF 55 Sunscreen.
*Body Wash: I’ll grab a Philosophy Shower Gel.
*Body Moisturizer: Like the toner, depending on the climate, I’ll take the PC one if it’s hotter, and the Olay one if it’s colder.
*Both body products, because of their sizes, go into my check-in bag if I’m flying. The rest go into my carry-on bag.
Hope that helps!
Posted by John | June 23, 2012, 3:26 pmWow, that’s detail (why am I surprised, it’s John Su!)! Hm…do you ever just go with a carry-on bag?
Posted by Lisa | June 24, 2012, 12:30 pmReally? I thought it was pretty straightforward! Oh well. Yeah, there have been a few times where a check-in bag wasn’t necessary. For example, if the trip is short. Since only my hair and body products go into my check-in bag, if can do without one, I’ll make sure that wherever I’m staying has complementary shampoo/body washes available; whether I’m going to a friend’s house, or a hotel, or inn, etc. But everything else remains the same.
Posted by John | June 24, 2012, 4:47 pmOh, it IS straightforward; I didn’t mean that it was complicated; just more detailed than I expected (and really, I shouldn’t be surprised since you always take the time to be detailed, which I love!)
Posted by Lisa | June 24, 2012, 10:24 pmHaha I know! I was just being a nuisance. xD
Posted by John | June 25, 2012, 1:36 amHappy Saturday, John!
I was wondering why you don’t use PC Skin Balancing Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum w/ Retinol. Paula used to market it as a mattifying serum but removed “mattifying” from the product name when she changed the packaging recently. I recall you mentioning that you have quite oily skin.
I’m interested because I use SBSACS in the morning, and RESIST Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum OR RESIST Intensive Wrinkle-Repair Retinol Serum in the evening. I’m open to paring down my routine!
Posted by BooBooNinja | May 19, 2012, 6:21 pmWell I don’t use the Skin Balancing one because since I use the RESIST serum both morning and evening, I want something that’s more heavy on the vitamin C and E, which the RESIST has. Furthermore, the Skin Balancing one contains retinol, which will be inactivated by sunlight, so that’s really a waste. Also, considering that Paula now came out with a special “retinol” serum, I’m assuming that both the Skin Balancing and Skin Recovery Concentrate Serums don’t contain that much retinol. Probably around .1%-.2%. So yeah, the RESIST one is overall just a much better product!
I’d say that for you, use the RESIST during the day and the retinol serum at night. No need for the Skin Balancing one.
Posted by John | May 19, 2012, 11:43 pmAwesome! Just what I needed to hear.
I just spent the entire evening writing up my skin care routine for you. (Yes. I am lame.) I will go back and edit it to reflect your recommendation. It will make it seem like I knew to use the retinol stuff at night all along. muah haa haa haa. I am a genius! (who needs sleep.)
Posted by BooBooNinja | May 20, 2012, 12:47 amHaha! Nice job! Glad to hear you got some positive info from that advice.
Posted by John | May 20, 2012, 10:43 amHi John,
Why don’t you use a cleanser in the morning?
I’m curious if you could take a look at my routine (with lots of PC stuff) and tell me what you think of it.
Would you have time for that?
Posted by BooBooNinja | February 20, 2012, 5:12 pmHi Ninja,
I do use cleanser in the morning! This is just a list of updates, not my actual updated skin care. If you see, there’s a page titled “My Story & Routine?” That’s where I will update my routine now and in the future. My current routine has been updated there! This particular post just states what I specifically changed. For example, I removed a particular product and then I said why. Or I replaced a product with another one, and then I gave the reason why.
Also, you’ll see that there’s a date on top of this post, which indicates when I implemented these changes. Future changes will still be on this post. I will of course, notify everyone either through Twitter, Faceook, email, and featured posts/notifications when that occurs. I hope everything is very clear now.
Please let me know if you still have questions, because if you do, others may as well. I want to make sure there are no misconceptions or confusion.
Posted by John | February 20, 2012, 5:49 pmI get it now.
Thanks!
Posted by BooBooNinja | February 20, 2012, 6:16 pmYay! Let’s hope everyone else gets it too.
Posted by John | February 20, 2012, 6:31 pm