Skinceuticals Renew Overnight Combination to Oily Skin: ($59 for 2.0 oz)
Positives: This contains high amounts of the Bilberry fruit extract that contains various polyphenols that exhibit antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, which in one study, were shown to reduce UVA-induced lipid peroxidation. Of course, more studies are necessary to corroborate the effectiveness of this ingredient. It also contains moderate amounts of the humectant squalane and low doses of tocopherol or vitamin E.
Neutrals: The sugar cane extract has no real function in this form. Skinceuticals wants you to believe that glycolic acid will magically come from this extract. Although glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane, the extraction process requires many difference components and reactions in order to extract glycolic acid from sugar cane. If they weren’t necessary, why would companies waste money to extract glycolic acid if they could just use sugar cane? Similarly, sugar maple extract also has no demonstrated benefits for the skin in the form present.
Negatives: There are low to moderate amounts of three forms of two members of the citrus family. Although vitamin C and polyphenols are components of this family of fruits, the stability and efficacy of them cannot be determined after these extracts have been processed. One well-documented example of this phenomenon would be the fact that black tea, which contains several polyphenols, loses all of them after it’s been processed. Furthermore, they also contain constituents that have been linked to negative reactions such as those seen in synephrine and furanocoumarins. These citrus extracts have also been demonstrated to irritate the skin and induce increased photosensitivity. Though the real-life consequences are probably small, why risk it all?
Packaging: As you can see in the picture, this employs jar packaging.
Overall: Given the jar packaging, which will steadily inactivate bilberry and vitamin E, no exfoliation capabilities, and the inclusion of potential irritants, I cannot recommend this product. You would think that Skinceuticals would come out with more better products.
Score:
If packaged in a JAR: PS = [[[PIS – [(NI1 x MHS1) + (NI2 x MHS2) + (NI3 x MHS3)]] x WIC] + [TPS x WPC]] x 100%
PS = [[[PIS – [(1/10 x 2/3) + (1/10 x 2/3) + (1/10 x 1/3)]] x WIC] + [1/3 x 1/3]] x 100%
PS = [[[7/10- [2/30 + 2/30 + 1/30]] x 2/3] + 1/9] x 100%
PS = [[[21/30 – 5/30] x 2/3] + 1/9] x 100%
PS = [[16/30 x 2/3] + 1/9] x 100%
PS = [32/90 + 10/90] x 100%
PS = 42/90 x 100%
PS = .467 x 100%
PS = 46.7%
AS = F-
If packaged in a PUMP BOTTLE or TUBE: PS = [[[PIS – [(NI1 x MHS1) + (NI2 x MHS2) + (NI3 x MHS3)]] x WIC] + [TPS x WPC]] x 100%
PS = [[[PIS – [(1/10 x 2/3) + (1/10 x 2/3) + (1/10 x 1/3)]] x WIC] + [3/3 x 1/3]] x 100%
PS = [[[7/10- [2/30 + 2/30 + 1/30]] x 2/3] + 3/9] x 100%
PS = [[[21/30 – 5/30] x 2/3] + 3/9] x 100%
PS = [[16/30 x 2/3] + 3/9] x 100%
PS = [32/90 + 30/90] x 100%
PS = 62/90 x 100%
PS = .689 x 100%
PS = 68.9%
AS = D+
Check the Product Review Rubric for a full explanation on how I rate products.
Ingredients:
Water, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Acer Saccharinum (Sugar Maple) Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Extract, Propylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane NF, Stearic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth 20, Dimethicone, Tocopheyl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, D&C Red #33.
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